Saigon is busy, loud and huge. There are so many motor bikes, a really unbelievable amount of motor bikes. Saigon is dominated by the bikes, you can always hear the buzz and beep, you are always on the look out for a safe spot to cross the road or avoiding bikes using the pavement as a parking spot. Saigon will not be winning any relaxing city break awards but the energy of the bikes is also a (very obvious sorry) metaphor for the energy of the city. When I rushed through Vietnam ten years ago Saigon was one of the few places in Asia that scared me, it was very dirty, everyone seemed to be running a scam, and I was glad to be getting out fast. Over the last few days we have walked across the city day and night, and felt very safe (except from death by Vespa). We have visited old, crowded temples, and taken in the view from hypermodern sky scrappers. There is building work all over the city and businesses operating from every possible space. Saigon is a city full of energy.
On our last day we visited the War Remnants Museum, we both find it a difficult decision to visit this kind of Museum as we question why we are going. We think it is important to remember that no mater the politics of a conflict real people are hurt on all sides and lives are ruined for a long time to come. Vietnam seems to be moving past this history, it is a shame that in other places the same lesson is being repeated today.
On a much lighter note we sat in one of the parks later in the same afternoon and chatted to a group of students for nearly an hour. We have been constantly amazed at the level of English language proficiency in Vietnam. Almost everyone that we have met, even in the smallest shop has spoke a little English. We have also had a number of very complex conversations with people who have just wanted to chat, this was the case with the students in the park where the topic stretched from Japanese animation to the Scottish accent via Italian Soda.
We had some amazing food in Saigon, but also some amazing food experiences. One of our highlights was a meal at Temple Club resturant on our first day there. After dodging bikes and noise across town we weren't sure if we would find the restaurant but we spotted a small sign pointing down a long passage. After going up a flight of stairs we went into a wood panelled, colonial era decorated club, that was cool and quiet. The food and drinks were delicious but the surroundings give a glimpse of another side (and time) of Saigon, it was almost surreal. Amongst our other culinary finds was a Japanese restaurant so authentic we forgot we were in Vietnam and an Indian restaurant that did the best Dosa we have had in a long time.
Saigon (or HCMC) was a bit of a sensory overload but once we found the best place to cross the road (tip - everywhere and nowhere, just go and let them go round) it had a lot of surprises.
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